Travel Well: Toledo

We're exactly a third of the way through Spring today. Even though most of the country's official "days off" have passed for the moment, and much of the world is grounded because of continuing complications with falling ash, I'm still hoping to finally get the foreign vacation I've been craving.

Last year, my boyfriend and I spent a wonderful five days in Spain, the highlight of which was our picture-perfect stay at a parador in Toledo. Spanish paradores are a unique brand of hotels that provide high-level accomodations in historic buildings. Preserving the traditional style of their locations, but bringing modern amenities and services, is the charm of the paradores.

Hotel Conde de Orgaz certainly deserves its inclusion in this club. The rooms are serenely simple, consisting of tiled floors, dark wood details, and large windows that lead to private porches overlooking one of the most astounding views imagineable.


Toledo is nestled like an island between gorges, and the Hotel Conde de Orgaz is perched across the river, high on the banks of The Emporer's Hill. The specific view from this location is known as a favorite of painters and was even captured by one of Toledo's stars, El Greco. True relaxation consists of sitting out on the Parador's veranda at sunset, savoring the scenery, drinking cerveza and snacking on olives and cheese.

Exploring Toledo itself is a romantic adventure, as you wind through its tiny cobblestone streets and lovingly preserved monuments. The city's main cathedral is an astounding example of Gothic architecture, while El Greco's mural, El Entierro del Conde de Orgaz, at La Iglesia de Santo Tome, is one of art history's significant treasures. Pick up some marzipan, a Toledo staple made at nearby convents, and nibble your way through the city's multitude of tapas bars. Toledo is nothing if not a feast for both eyes and stomach.


Parador de Toledo (Hotel Conde de Orgaz)
+34 925 221 850
http://www.paradores.es/en/tratarFichaParadorCabecera.do?parador=079

Travel Well: The Galilee

It's almost Thursday, which means that my thoughts are automatically attuning themselves to the weekend. I haven't made many plans yet, but find myself daydreaming about the lovely day I spent last Saturday in the Galilee. Perhaps a repeat is in order?

Our car trip from Tel Aviv began with the obligatory stop for gas and coffee - both equally important when large amounts of driving at early hours is involved. Our first official visit was going to be to the Church of the Annunciation in Nazareth. As a Taglit alum, one of my missions living in Israel has been to even out my knowledge by catching up on the major sights of Christianity and Islam. Today was going to be all about the former, with following stops at the Mount of Beatitudes and the Jordan River.

This was my second time to Nazareth. The weather was perfect and the streets were humming with activity. I rather like the shouk here, where the prices seem lower than usual and the selection is just as varied as anywhere. The Church of the Annunciation is also always interesting, particularly because of the selection of mosaics that have been donated from around the world. I hadn't remembered them from my previous visit and was excited to view - and psychoanalyze - them all over again.

Lunch was at the absolute Nazareth staple, Diana. We went to their new branch, which is around the corner and up the hill from the one on the main street. This outpost is far more beautiful, especially considering the temperature of the day and the fact that we were able to eat outside under the stately trees. An unending selection of salads, vegetables, hummus, and meats was gorgeously presented to us, topped off, of course, by their tasty baklava. I am beyond disappointed that I didn't snap pictures of the scene, but I was honestly too overwhelmed with the feast to think of anything else.


Post-lunch, we visited the Mount of Beatitudes, where the awe-inspiring natural beauty forced me to draw my camera out of the bag. This is certainly the time of year to visit the Galilee and I felt that I was seeing an Israel I didn't know existed. Lush, green, filled with blooming flowers and acres of crops, the land looked unbelievably fertile and welcoming. The view from the church, which stretched out in both directions along the banks of the Kineret, was insurpassable. The building itself, a marble, yet surprisingly tasteful (considering it was commissioned by Mussolini, of all people) edifice nestled between the rolling hills. We trekked down a foot path to the water and stopped along the way to explore a local banana grove.

Finally, it was on to the Jordan River. A bit of a rush, as the baptismal sight there closes at 6 p.m. We had no intention of wading into the water, but a quick hand dip did the spiritual trick. At dusk, the site was fairly quiet and we bought some funny souvenirs in the gift shop on our way out; a peaceful end to a long day.