Eat Well: Charcuterie

Now is the time to enjoy the outdoors in Israel. The unbearable summer heat has yet to hit, but the weather is perfectly warm enough to enjoy an evening meal outside without needing to jostle for space next to an electrical heater.

Yaffo immediately comes to mind in such weather, because of its concentration of dining and nightlife options that are tucked away in HaShouk HaPishpishin. The streets of the old flea market which, during the day can be somewhat of a tourist trap, come alive with a diverse crowd at night, several hours after vendors' stalls have been closed.

One of the largest and, perhaps, best-dressed crowds can be found in front of Charcuterie, a restaurant that spills out of its tiny closet-like space to take over nearly an entire block with tables and a makeshift outside bar. The menu is decidedly simple, with several typical appetizers, pastas, salads and, of course, the tasty platters of charcuterie meat for which the place is named.

The music is loud and the drinking is heavy. Well-heeled Tel Avivians converse animatedly and the entire scene eventually assumes the look of a lively street party. Charcuterie's new extension, a similarly styled bar with a small selection of the restaurant's meats and appetizers, occupies a corner spot just a few doors down, thus increasing the block's traffic.

Reservations are essential, unless you're a small group happy to angle for a position at the outside bar, whose seats are kept open on a first-come-first-served basis. The whole menu can still be ordered here, making it a perfect option for those hopping back and forth along the flea market's alleys, shifting through the different scenes at Yaffo's plethora of new outdoor dining options.

3 Rabbi Hanina St.
Yaffo Flea Market
+972 03 682 8843

Travel Well: Toledo

We're exactly a third of the way through Spring today. Even though most of the country's official "days off" have passed for the moment, and much of the world is grounded because of continuing complications with falling ash, I'm still hoping to finally get the foreign vacation I've been craving.

Last year, my boyfriend and I spent a wonderful five days in Spain, the highlight of which was our picture-perfect stay at a parador in Toledo. Spanish paradores are a unique brand of hotels that provide high-level accomodations in historic buildings. Preserving the traditional style of their locations, but bringing modern amenities and services, is the charm of the paradores.

Hotel Conde de Orgaz certainly deserves its inclusion in this club. The rooms are serenely simple, consisting of tiled floors, dark wood details, and large windows that lead to private porches overlooking one of the most astounding views imagineable.


Toledo is nestled like an island between gorges, and the Hotel Conde de Orgaz is perched across the river, high on the banks of The Emporer's Hill. The specific view from this location is known as a favorite of painters and was even captured by one of Toledo's stars, El Greco. True relaxation consists of sitting out on the Parador's veranda at sunset, savoring the scenery, drinking cerveza and snacking on olives and cheese.

Exploring Toledo itself is a romantic adventure, as you wind through its tiny cobblestone streets and lovingly preserved monuments. The city's main cathedral is an astounding example of Gothic architecture, while El Greco's mural, El Entierro del Conde de Orgaz, at La Iglesia de Santo Tome, is one of art history's significant treasures. Pick up some marzipan, a Toledo staple made at nearby convents, and nibble your way through the city's multitude of tapas bars. Toledo is nothing if not a feast for both eyes and stomach.


Parador de Toledo (Hotel Conde de Orgaz)
+34 925 221 850
http://www.paradores.es/en/tratarFichaParadorCabecera.do?parador=079

Sip Well: Arcaffe

There's no arguing the fact that, although this is a city filled with lively cafes, you should still be able to drink a great cup of coffee without ever having to leave your apartment. The instant brands that people are so fond of here just don't do it for me: their taste strikes me as a bit tinny, and the caffeine never seems to hit me in quite the right way. Filter coffee is just as easy to make, especially when you're using a standard, uncomplicated french press, and the key is only to find your perfect blend of beans.

While Tazzo d'Oro may serve up my favorite coffee in the city, it's a bit of a trek for days when we need a filter refill. Enter Arcaffe, another Italian coffee transplant, which has grown into one of Israel's largest coffee chains. A popular cafe in its own right (serving decadent pastries, juices, salads, sandwiches, pizzas, etc.), Arcaffe also sells excellent ground coffee beans for take-away. My personal favorite is their flavorful Roma blend, which works well for espresso, Turkish coffee, or filter, and is ideal for those who prefer a stronger taste. Also offered are Cafe Creme, Mocha Creme, Toscana, and the decaf Pianissimo, each of which is recommended for a particular preparation method or two. As the beans are ground upon your order, it's possible to purchase as much or as little as you like. Pick up a 250 gram bag (or more) and ask them to slice one of their fresh loafs of bread (they are excellent and less expensive than bread found in the grocery store). This is my weekly take-away ritual and, thus far, it has served me well on many a morning.


Tel Aviv Locations:
Dizengoff Center
Rehov Basel
Rehov HaArba'a
Sderot Rothschild

www.arcaffe.co.il

Images credited to the Arcaffe website.

Shop Well: Paula Bianco

Gan HaHashmal is known as Tel Aviv's district for up-and-coming designers, but Smadar-Pola Azriel, with a jewelry line that sells at Bergdorf Goodman NYC, Colette in Paris, and Harvey Nichols in London, has already gained a heady international reputation. The fact that her Paula Bianco gems still locate a tiny storefront in such a decidedly industrial district is a testament to both the line's cool factor and the bargains that can be found by purchasing directly from Azriel herself.

Several different themes can be found throughout the store, from the selection of scarves, to the rows of tiny gold charms, to the necklaces with alphabet pendents fashioned from old stamps. Perhaps the signature Paula Bianco look, however, is her wide array of jewelry made from antique buttons, ribbons and pearls. Found in the form of earrings, headbands, rings, bracelets, and necklaces, these statement pieces fashion feminine materials into strong designs, establishing the line's perfect blend of soft glamour and tough chic.



Paula Bianco
12 Harakevet St
+972-3-6850171
www.paulabianco.biz

Images credited to the Paula Bianco website.

Art: Yael Bartana

Through no fault of my own, it's been almost over a month since my last blog post. The problem has actually been with the website itself and, now that it's fixed, I am overjoyed to be jumping back online to start updating again!

One of the things I've been most anxious to write about is the exhibition currently showing at Sommer Contemporary Art. The gallery has been transformed in order to show two of Israeli artist Yael Bartana's video works, the first from her (unfinished) "Polish Trilogy": Mary Koszmary (Dreams and Nightmares), from 2007, and Mur I Wieza (Wall and Tower) from 2009, the latter of which is having its first showing in Israel.

Mary Koszmary shows Polish activist Slawomir Sierakowski calling for a return of three million Polish Jews to their homeland. Wall and Tower imagines the actualization of his request, as a group of Israelis builds a kibbutz on the former site of the Warszaw Ghetto.

As I often volunteer at Sommer Contemporary Art, I have been able to observe the intense reactions that people have to these two works. While the responses range from absolute outrage to philosophical understanding, the point to me is that, whether you disagree with Sierakowski's vision or not, the video raises valid questions for today that are, indeed, being discussed academically. It is a testament to the strength of Bartana's art that she can confront people in such a manner, expertly evoking both emotions and discourse.

The exhibition ends May 15th.

Sommer Contemporary Art
113 Rothschild Blvd
Mon-Thurs. 10:00-6:00
Fri. 10:00-2:00
Sat. 11:00-1:00

Image credited to Yael Bartana.