Art: Deca Dance

Eat Well: Brasserie

This week, I revisited Brasserie and was reminded why this recurring favorite is always a mood lifter. Despite its location in the center of the city, just across from Rabin Square, the restaurant is faithful to its eponymous Parisian aesthetic, thus not only causing it to stand out, but also making a stop here feel like a mini vacation. Large mirrors, dark wood, french doors, lines of booths, and an ample bar create a stylishly subdued atmosphere for which the clientele is eager to dress up a bit. Upbeat music plays and excellent cocktails, from caipirinhas to martinis, help along the congenial atmosphere.

The menu, written in both Hebrew and French, is filled with classic dishes from the latter's cuisine: moules frites, roasted chicken, nicoise salad, and steak tartare all make an appearance, as do mouthwatering pomme frites (cleverly wrapped in a faux newspaper) and a decadent "American style" hamburger. Expect efficient service from waiters who are dressed the part and make sure you leave room for a rich dessert.

Image credited to Haaretz.com.

Imbibe Well: Hotel Montefiore

"The Best Two Hours in Town" is how Hotel Montefiore bills its happy hour, and it's not an overstatement. Where else can you get history (the building has been restored to its original 1920s glamour), elitism (this boutique hotel only contains twelve rooms, while its restaurant is known to be exclusive), an elegant aesthetic (the team behind Coffee Bar and Brasserie has brought their distinctly European look here as well) and ridiculously low-priced drinks (an entire menu under 30 NIS) all rolled into one?

If it sounds too good to be true, it isn't. Seven days a week, from 5-7 p.m, Hotel Montefiore shakes off its reputation for expensive taste and instead offers a list of excellently mixed cocktails, including Kir Royals, Mojitos, Lychee Martinis, and Vodka Sours, each for only 29 NIS, a price that would be low even for a corner cafe, much less an upscale institution. A single glass of red wine goes for 20 NIS, white for 18 NIS, and it gets better: no matter if you order one round or two, you'll receive complimentary potato chips and miniature sandwiches. All in all, the waitstaff is attentive, the clientele well-dressed, the mood serene, and the presentation immaculate, making the atmosphere perfect for an afternoon apertif.

Impressive style and delicious substance, for once without the hefty price tag attached. As deals like this are rare, and space is limited at both the bar and tables, it is recommended to call ahead for reservations.

36 Montefiore Street
+972 3 564 6100
www.hotelmontefiore.co.il

Image credited to the Hotel Montefiore website.

Art: Fresh Paint, DocAviv, and Houses from Within

Get ready for an art-filled week. First up is Tel Aviv's third annual Fresh Paint Art Fair, which opens today in Yaffo. The showcase for contemporary artists and galleries is unfolding in a newly renovated warehouse along the old port, as well as in several other nearby buildings. At last night's preview, a packed crowd remained until late in the evening, indicating that, this year's fair is hotter than ever, with the focus as much on the art as the fashionable people viewing it.

From Wednesday through Saturday, entrance is open to the public for a fee of 35NIS. The ground floor contains works by artists who do not yet have gallery representation, while the upper floor is built as a series of showrooms for Tel Aviv's main contemporary galleries. Both levels have their own merit: many of the emerging artists' works, while ranging in their taste and ability, are at least financially accessible. The mini galleries, on the other hand, provide a compressed tutorial on what is considered to be the best work the city has to offer. Rather than trekking the streets from gallery to gallery, visitors receive a taste of them all in one place.

Stop at the Caffe Tazza d'Oro cafe on the top level for sea views and a bite to eat. Visit the bookstore for gifts, and especially make sure to check out the "mystery postcard" room. This is a wonderful gimmick in which hundreds of handmade postcards are displayed, each one designed by either an unknown or famous artist. No names appear on the cards, so you must purchase one to find out if you've just made the best investment ever or thrown 180 NIS down the drain.

Fresh Paint Contemporary Art Fair
May 5th & 6th: 12:00 - 22:00
May 7th: 10:00 - 18:00
May 8th: 10:00 - 22:00
www.freshpaint.co.il


Next up, DocAviv begins May 6th and runs until the 15th, with films showing at the Tel Aviv Cinematheque, the ZOA House, and the Tel Aviv Museum. The program boasts twenty-two documentary works, half from Israel, and half from international directors, as well as student competitions, meet and greet events, and special screenings. Advanced ticket purchases are recommended and special deals are available for packages; normal entrance is 35 NIS per ticket, although a reduced fee of 25 NIS is available for filmmakers, students, soldiers, and senior citizens. The complete schedule is listed on the DocAviv website.

DocAviv
May 6th - 15th
Daytime and nighttime screenings.
www.docaviv.co.il


Finally, Houses from Within is an annual two-day event in Tel Aviv that offers a unique opportunity for visitors to view inside private residences, business, and historic sites around the city. In the organizations own words' it is an event to "open your eyes and mind to the built environment" around you, and it certainly serves as a sort of bonding experience for the city. This year's open properties are listed on the organization's website, which helps guests conveniently sort through the selections by area, type of activity, or specific timeframe. Reservations are needed for the most in-demand properties, so it's wise to plan ahead if there's something of particular interest. Otherwise, a hardcopy of the schedule is available in the weekend magazines and can be used for touring the day-of. Cost is free.

Batim me'Befnim (Houses from Within)
May 7th & 8th
Each property has separate hours.
www.batim.mouse.co.il

Images credited to the Fresh Paint, DocAviv and Batim me'Befnim websites.

Trend: Chain Necklaces

Forget dainty charms hung from a sliver of a chain. The new trend across fashion blogs and magazines is the necklace made of hardware, a statement piece comprised of a mass of heavy chains in various sizes and metals, sometimes knotted together, sometimes cascading to great lengths. Even J.Crew, the bastion of preppy style, has not remained immune to this new punk look: the necklace shown above is one from their new jewelry line designed by Dana Lorenz of Fenton/Fallon.

While shopping this week at HaShouk HaCarmel, I raided the two jewelry stands and found quite a selection of chains in various sizes, all costing around 20NIS per necklace. These fabulously inexpensive alternatives can be layerd on top of one another or knotted by hand. Below, a detail from my favorite pick:


Top image credited to J.Crew (www.jcrew.com).

Eat Well: Charcuterie

Now is the time to enjoy the outdoors in Israel. The unbearable summer heat has yet to hit, but the weather is perfectly warm enough to enjoy an evening meal outside without needing to jostle for space next to an electrical heater.

Yaffo immediately comes to mind in such weather, because of its concentration of dining and nightlife options that are tucked away in HaShouk HaPishpishin. The streets of the old flea market which, during the day can be somewhat of a tourist trap, come alive with a diverse crowd at night, several hours after vendors' stalls have been closed.

One of the largest and, perhaps, best-dressed crowds can be found in front of Charcuterie, a restaurant that spills out of its tiny closet-like space to take over nearly an entire block with tables and a makeshift outside bar. The menu is decidedly simple, with several typical appetizers, pastas, salads and, of course, the tasty platters of charcuterie meat for which the place is named.

The music is loud and the drinking is heavy. Well-heeled Tel Avivians converse animatedly and the entire scene eventually assumes the look of a lively street party. Charcuterie's new extension, a similarly styled bar with a small selection of the restaurant's meats and appetizers, occupies a corner spot just a few doors down, thus increasing the block's traffic.

Reservations are essential, unless you're a small group happy to angle for a position at the outside bar, whose seats are kept open on a first-come-first-served basis. The whole menu can still be ordered here, making it a perfect option for those hopping back and forth along the flea market's alleys, shifting through the different scenes at Yaffo's plethora of new outdoor dining options.

3 Rabbi Hanina St.
Yaffo Flea Market
+972 03 682 8843

Travel Well: Toledo

We're exactly a third of the way through Spring today. Even though most of the country's official "days off" have passed for the moment, and much of the world is grounded because of continuing complications with falling ash, I'm still hoping to finally get the foreign vacation I've been craving.

Last year, my boyfriend and I spent a wonderful five days in Spain, the highlight of which was our picture-perfect stay at a parador in Toledo. Spanish paradores are a unique brand of hotels that provide high-level accomodations in historic buildings. Preserving the traditional style of their locations, but bringing modern amenities and services, is the charm of the paradores.

Hotel Conde de Orgaz certainly deserves its inclusion in this club. The rooms are serenely simple, consisting of tiled floors, dark wood details, and large windows that lead to private porches overlooking one of the most astounding views imagineable.


Toledo is nestled like an island between gorges, and the Hotel Conde de Orgaz is perched across the river, high on the banks of The Emporer's Hill. The specific view from this location is known as a favorite of painters and was even captured by one of Toledo's stars, El Greco. True relaxation consists of sitting out on the Parador's veranda at sunset, savoring the scenery, drinking cerveza and snacking on olives and cheese.

Exploring Toledo itself is a romantic adventure, as you wind through its tiny cobblestone streets and lovingly preserved monuments. The city's main cathedral is an astounding example of Gothic architecture, while El Greco's mural, El Entierro del Conde de Orgaz, at La Iglesia de Santo Tome, is one of art history's significant treasures. Pick up some marzipan, a Toledo staple made at nearby convents, and nibble your way through the city's multitude of tapas bars. Toledo is nothing if not a feast for both eyes and stomach.


Parador de Toledo (Hotel Conde de Orgaz)
+34 925 221 850
http://www.paradores.es/en/tratarFichaParadorCabecera.do?parador=079

Sip Well: Arcaffe

There's no arguing the fact that, although this is a city filled with lively cafes, you should still be able to drink a great cup of coffee without ever having to leave your apartment. The instant brands that people are so fond of here just don't do it for me: their taste strikes me as a bit tinny, and the caffeine never seems to hit me in quite the right way. Filter coffee is just as easy to make, especially when you're using a standard, uncomplicated french press, and the key is only to find your perfect blend of beans.

While Tazzo d'Oro may serve up my favorite coffee in the city, it's a bit of a trek for days when we need a filter refill. Enter Arcaffe, another Italian coffee transplant, which has grown into one of Israel's largest coffee chains. A popular cafe in its own right (serving decadent pastries, juices, salads, sandwiches, pizzas, etc.), Arcaffe also sells excellent ground coffee beans for take-away. My personal favorite is their flavorful Roma blend, which works well for espresso, Turkish coffee, or filter, and is ideal for those who prefer a stronger taste. Also offered are Cafe Creme, Mocha Creme, Toscana, and the decaf Pianissimo, each of which is recommended for a particular preparation method or two. As the beans are ground upon your order, it's possible to purchase as much or as little as you like. Pick up a 250 gram bag (or more) and ask them to slice one of their fresh loafs of bread (they are excellent and less expensive than bread found in the grocery store). This is my weekly take-away ritual and, thus far, it has served me well on many a morning.


Tel Aviv Locations:
Dizengoff Center
Rehov Basel
Rehov HaArba'a
Sderot Rothschild

www.arcaffe.co.il

Images credited to the Arcaffe website.

Shop Well: Paula Bianco

Gan HaHashmal is known as Tel Aviv's district for up-and-coming designers, but Smadar-Pola Azriel, with a jewelry line that sells at Bergdorf Goodman NYC, Colette in Paris, and Harvey Nichols in London, has already gained a heady international reputation. The fact that her Paula Bianco gems still locate a tiny storefront in such a decidedly industrial district is a testament to both the line's cool factor and the bargains that can be found by purchasing directly from Azriel herself.

Several different themes can be found throughout the store, from the selection of scarves, to the rows of tiny gold charms, to the necklaces with alphabet pendents fashioned from old stamps. Perhaps the signature Paula Bianco look, however, is her wide array of jewelry made from antique buttons, ribbons and pearls. Found in the form of earrings, headbands, rings, bracelets, and necklaces, these statement pieces fashion feminine materials into strong designs, establishing the line's perfect blend of soft glamour and tough chic.



Paula Bianco
12 Harakevet St
+972-3-6850171
www.paulabianco.biz

Images credited to the Paula Bianco website.

Art: Yael Bartana

Through no fault of my own, it's been almost over a month since my last blog post. The problem has actually been with the website itself and, now that it's fixed, I am overjoyed to be jumping back online to start updating again!

One of the things I've been most anxious to write about is the exhibition currently showing at Sommer Contemporary Art. The gallery has been transformed in order to show two of Israeli artist Yael Bartana's video works, the first from her (unfinished) "Polish Trilogy": Mary Koszmary (Dreams and Nightmares), from 2007, and Mur I Wieza (Wall and Tower) from 2009, the latter of which is having its first showing in Israel.

Mary Koszmary shows Polish activist Slawomir Sierakowski calling for a return of three million Polish Jews to their homeland. Wall and Tower imagines the actualization of his request, as a group of Israelis builds a kibbutz on the former site of the Warszaw Ghetto.

As I often volunteer at Sommer Contemporary Art, I have been able to observe the intense reactions that people have to these two works. While the responses range from absolute outrage to philosophical understanding, the point to me is that, whether you disagree with Sierakowski's vision or not, the video raises valid questions for today that are, indeed, being discussed academically. It is a testament to the strength of Bartana's art that she can confront people in such a manner, expertly evoking both emotions and discourse.

The exhibition ends May 15th.

Sommer Contemporary Art
113 Rothschild Blvd
Mon-Thurs. 10:00-6:00
Fri. 10:00-2:00
Sat. 11:00-1:00

Image credited to Yael Bartana.

Travel Well: The Galilee

It's almost Thursday, which means that my thoughts are automatically attuning themselves to the weekend. I haven't made many plans yet, but find myself daydreaming about the lovely day I spent last Saturday in the Galilee. Perhaps a repeat is in order?

Our car trip from Tel Aviv began with the obligatory stop for gas and coffee - both equally important when large amounts of driving at early hours is involved. Our first official visit was going to be to the Church of the Annunciation in Nazareth. As a Taglit alum, one of my missions living in Israel has been to even out my knowledge by catching up on the major sights of Christianity and Islam. Today was going to be all about the former, with following stops at the Mount of Beatitudes and the Jordan River.

This was my second time to Nazareth. The weather was perfect and the streets were humming with activity. I rather like the shouk here, where the prices seem lower than usual and the selection is just as varied as anywhere. The Church of the Annunciation is also always interesting, particularly because of the selection of mosaics that have been donated from around the world. I hadn't remembered them from my previous visit and was excited to view - and psychoanalyze - them all over again.

Lunch was at the absolute Nazareth staple, Diana. We went to their new branch, which is around the corner and up the hill from the one on the main street. This outpost is far more beautiful, especially considering the temperature of the day and the fact that we were able to eat outside under the stately trees. An unending selection of salads, vegetables, hummus, and meats was gorgeously presented to us, topped off, of course, by their tasty baklava. I am beyond disappointed that I didn't snap pictures of the scene, but I was honestly too overwhelmed with the feast to think of anything else.


Post-lunch, we visited the Mount of Beatitudes, where the awe-inspiring natural beauty forced me to draw my camera out of the bag. This is certainly the time of year to visit the Galilee and I felt that I was seeing an Israel I didn't know existed. Lush, green, filled with blooming flowers and acres of crops, the land looked unbelievably fertile and welcoming. The view from the church, which stretched out in both directions along the banks of the Kineret, was insurpassable. The building itself, a marble, yet surprisingly tasteful (considering it was commissioned by Mussolini, of all people) edifice nestled between the rolling hills. We trekked down a foot path to the water and stopped along the way to explore a local banana grove.

Finally, it was on to the Jordan River. A bit of a rush, as the baptismal sight there closes at 6 p.m. We had no intention of wading into the water, but a quick hand dip did the spiritual trick. At dusk, the site was fairly quiet and we bought some funny souvenirs in the gift shop on our way out; a peaceful end to a long day.

Eat Well: Cafe Sonia

Just a few posts ago, I was writing about scouring the shouk for knee-high socks to wear in the rain. Now that we've spent the last week enduring a heatwave, however, I'm turning my attention to one of my favorite "sunny day" spots, Cafe Sonia Getzel Shapira.

Cafe Sonia inhabits a hidden courtyard on a tiny, dead-end alley off of King George, and its calm atmosphere couldn't be further form the hustle and bustle of the nearby shouk. Leafy trees, a humming fountain, and pebble-covered ground all add to the relaxed, organic aura of the restaurant, which is decorated with brightly colored mosaic tables and a rainbow array of chairs.

A green glass bottle, full of icy water, is quickly brought to the table, along with menus covered in childlike drawings, its sections whimsically titled: Toasty Fairytales, Pamper Yourself Breakfasts. The back page lays out an intriguing story about how the cafe, and the street it's on, got their shared name.

The menu especially distinguishes itself in its wide selection of shakshuka, Sonia's version of which I consider to be far and away the best I've found in Tel Aviv. A traditional option is available: egg, tomato, and onion cooked with spices and served in a hot frying pan. More elaborate variations include goat cheese, mozarella and mushrooms, red meat, and a delicious creamy spinach version that is furthest from the norm. Served with a small side salad and a delicious, addictive loaf of homemade, Moroccan-style bread (cooked over stones and sprinkled with sea salt), this is an Israeli staple not to be missed.


At night, the scene at Sonia turns towards the romantic, with candles and hanging lanterns illuminating the area. But stay away on cold and rainy ones: the courtyard remains uncovered throughout the Winter and there are no heat lamps to speak of. Only about three small tables sit in-doors.

Cafe Sonia Getzel Shapira
Sunday-Saturday, 8 a.m. to midnight
1 Simta Almonit
+972 57 944 2801
www.soniagetzelshapira.rest-e.co.il

Shakshuka image credited to the Cafe Sonia website.

Shop Well: H&M Arrives

Yesterday, March 11th, 2010, Tel Aviv (and all of Israel, for that matter) got its first-ever H&M store. My boyfriend is involved in the company, so I was there. At 11:00 a.m., the ribbon was cut and mayhem erupted, as people at the front of the line were literally falling over one another to get their hands on the clothes. One H&M employee was hit in the face as the crowds rushed through the entrance; another scrambled to help a woman move her stroller swiftly out of the oncoming foot traffic. Why anyone would bring a tiny baby or toddler into an environment like this is beyond me.

Besides the general fighting over garments, here are some of the oddities I observed:
1. A woman plowing people down with a double stroller that held her twins.
2. Someone walking around with a bag over her head, so as not to be photographed.
3. A woman breastfeeding in the children's section.


Totally overwhelmed by the crowd's behavior, I took the afternoon off, but made it back at 9 p.m. to see the shop close. The scene was a clothing graveyard. The store, which had looked so pristine and beautiful two evenings earlier at the VIP party, appeared to have hosted a ransacked "going out of business" sale, not an opening day. Hangers were strewn across the floor; clothes were piled upon display tables or littered in aisles; the selections of clothes on racks were entirely mismatched and misplaced. Lingerie could be found on the opposite end of the store in the children's section and vice versa. Employees informed me that four people had lost their pants in the mayhem, one had lost her dress, and one had lost her baby, who was found, eventually, sleeping peacefully in a corner.

The store, which was supposed to close at 10 p.m., stayed open until nearly eleven, in order to accomodate the continuing stream of people. When the gate finally had to closed, employees and CEOs alike stood in the entrance and created a human shield against individuals who were still trying to sweet talk or argue their way inside.

www.hm.com/il

Sip Well: Caffe Tazzo d'Oro

Since my personal vision of heaven is a place where you can arrive for your caffeine fix in the morning and then stay long enough to drink a glass of dry white wine with your late lunch, Caffe Tazzo d'Oro has become a staple in my cafe rounds. The tiled floors, the wicker chairs, the cheerily sunny light yellow walls, the plethora of electrical outlets...everything here is pleasant, comfortable, easy.

Try one of their incredible breakfasts. Or indulge in a business lunch. I like to start with the eggplant and goat cheese before moving onto their chopped cucumber, tomato, and sliced schnitzel salad with lemony tehina dressing. Ask for extra focaccia bread - it's like nothing else I've found in this city. And, being a cupcake lover in a rather cupcake-less land here, I often top off my meals with one of their little white-chocolate praline balls, which are almost too-sweet to handle, but taste just like a little glob of frosting.

And about that namesake coffee. When my boyfriend and I were in Rome last Fall, we stalked a Tazza d'Oro coffee shop near the Pantheon, literally walking day after day in the opposite direction of our intended destination just to get a ahold of one, two, three tiny cups of espresso and then a capuccino for the road. It's just that good.

Bonus: The cafe hosts live jazz on Friday afternoons around 2:30. Come early. It fills up fast.

Tazzo d'Oro
6 Ahad Ha'am
Neve Tzedek

Trend: Mink Muffs

Essie's new nail polish color Mink Muffs has been decorating my fingers for weeks now. I first got introduced to it when I was back in L.A. around New Year's when, having gotten tired of my winter reds, I decided to ask the manicure place what their newest selection was. The taupey color they produced wasn't immediately seductive, yet it turned out to be surprisingly refreshing once applied. There's something to be said for the type of clean edginess that a neutral palette can evoke - just think of 60s era nuded-out lips.

Throw on something flirty and bright to go with it. The contrast will lend a new interest and sophistication to the color. Take, for example, my post-manicure experience shopping at J. Crew. Amidst that pastel backdrop, my fingernails positively popped. So much so that the sales girl helping me began calling her colleagues over to see "the new color" she loved.

Florals and grays. Seems like the perfect combo for a Spring that, so far, has been half heatwave, half rainstorm.

Trend: Knee-High Socks

The rain can often force me to compromise my sense of style. I start pinning my bangs back, tucking comfy leggings into boots, borrowing my boyfriend's oversized sweaters, skipping all makeup, and heading out the door looking fairly like I've just rolled out of bed.

A recent stop at the shouk, however, gave me a reason to put together cute outfits again: socks. Decorative, layerable socks. Knee-high navy blue socks worn over grey leggings and under black boots; knee-high grey socks worn over black tights with brown boots; and the sexiest thigh-high thin black socks worn over bare legs or layered over black tights with tall black heels.

Cheap and warm, my new purchases are the perfect mix of fashion and practicality, keeping me covered while allowing me to slip back into a few shorter skirts and dresses. It feels good to feel cute again.

Eat Well: Joz ve Loz

There was never any question of how to start this blog...Joz ve Loz was the very first restaurant I dined at in Tel Aviv and nowhere else in the city has since trumped it.

There's something magical about this place. The tucked-away, nondescript, signless entrance. The colored lights hanging above the patio and the love poems written on every menu. The mismatched furniture. The rumored story of the place being started by a lesbian couple who have now broken off (I can't verify this one, but the place does bleed romance). The feeling of being snuggled between the highrises in a secret garden. The hum of the air conditioning system. The bikes and broken pots in the corner.

The selection changes daily, based on whatever fresh ingredients the restaurant picked up at the market that day. What never changes, however, is the fanciful, distinctly Mediterranean kick that is applied to these crisp market findings. Unexpected mixes of flavors and textures is what characterizeds almost all of the dishes.

On a recent night, there was an Asian salad with lychees, nuts, greens, and herbs. Grilled octopus on slices of toasted bread. Delicate ceviche drizzled in olive oil, with crunchy nuggets of salt, pomegranate seeds, and basil slivers. Lamb chops atop a burghul and tomato salad. Homemade pasta and gnocchi with asparagus, celery, spices and parmesan. A large, yet simple, entrecote with roasted potatoes. Small white fish encrusted with herbs, to be dipped in yogurt. Lamb roasted in the oven for six hours, served with tehina and lentils.

I usually like to drown my meals here with their house wine, a South African red. But they do have a full bar and bottled beer. One beer is served on tap: Tibe, from the Palestinian village of the same name. It's light in color, somewhat sweet in flavor. A nice option.

Dessert here is simple. Perhaps malabe, or flourless chocolate cake. Make sure to get some of their strong Arabic coffee or at least black tea with mint to gird yourself for the rest of the evening's festivities...

One caveat: The menu here is only in Hebrew, so if you can't read, you will have to smile a lot and thank your waiter for taking the time to translate. It is not an easy task to find the English words for many of their more obscure ingredients and cooking techniques.

51 Yehuda Halevi
+972 3 560 6385